![]() Was considering carabiners at all connection points, but decided to go with turnbuckles just in case.Ĭrap, just realized I didn't order the clamps. Not sure if this will work well, but again, the load isn't high, and nobody's life is at stake. I'm just wary of the posts because they will be more work, cost more, could be more unsightly/ugly, and could destabilize my retaining wall (since the below ground portion of the posts would be levering against the retaining wall unless I made them REALLY deep).ĭecided to use 1/4' SS eye bolts to anchor into the house at the second floor girder. It may not work, and I might have to install some posts instead. ![]() What I'm trying to do is use a "main line" to span about 200', and then have 25' zigzag segments between the house and the "main line." I'm saying "main line" because I have no idea what this would be called in architectural/civE terminology. ![]() I think the lights themselves would probably handle the 25' span without help - they are very heavy duty cable. This isn't a huge project, so either way the expense is minimal - I just want to "do it right". Recommended for maximum plate thicknesses in the range of 7.9 mm (5/16 in.) to 12.7 mm (1/2 in.). It is low spatter and has a great weld appearance. Stainless steel has the same problem in that for many components I have no idea what kind of SS it is, but I just hope the quality is there. NR211 Flux-Corded Welding Wire ED031448 is a versatile welding wire for all-position welding of light-gauge steel or thin plate up to 5/16 in. The biggest issue I have with the galvanized is that I have no idea if it's "quality" - hit dipped vs. Greg's final comment notwithstanding, I went with stainless steel 3/16 uncoated at twice the price of 1/8 galvanized, vinyl coated. I can certainly clean up the frayed ends with some rigger's tape, if that's the only issue.Thanks, guys. And his enthusiasm was noted by many of us.īut I'm wondering if the "hammer smash" method of crimping provides the necessary and expected strength for the crimps, or if I can look forward to having one or more unexpectedly fail, dropping the stern of the dinghy unceremoniously into my wake without warning while underway, causing unwanted excitement, and possibly great expense. I asked him whether he should be using the crimper and his response was "My method is better." Blocking the entire isle with this project and his expansive claw hammer stokes he proceeded to finish the project for me. While he made the first loop he picked up a hammer and got onto the floor and smashed the aluminum crimp flat, leaving the slightly frayed end of the wire without a cap ("I don't use those, just put some electrical tape around it."). I'm concerned about the technique the Associate used and whether the resulting strength of the crimps can be relied upon. ![]() They, somewhat roughly, came out like I needed. Total cost for ~3' of 1/4" stainless wire and 2 packages of aluminum crimps were $6.50, labor was free. Sweet! So I asked a Home Depot associate for assistance in putting together the two pieces that I needed, and he made them for me on the spot. I dropped by Home Depot to find they had 1/4" uncoated stainless wire for a reasonable price (380 lb working weight for the wire and the dinghy will be slung from 4 points, so the working weight at each point will be some fraction of the 131 lbs), as well as the aluminum crimps, and a wire cutter and crimper to use. I have no experience working with braided wire. Dingy + motor = 131 lbs (I leave the 4hp motor attached while in the davits). So I purchased a new dinghy this week and needed stainless braided wire crimped with a loop on each end to go onto my transom u-bolts, and the other loop to go to a stainless O ring which is connected to my davit hoist.
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